Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Dublin's Victorian Pubs

The Stag’s Head
Although this pub dates back to 1770, the interior you see today is authentic to an 1895 redo. It’s the real deal. No thumping music, just original stained glass windows, red leather chairs and a most liberal use of mahogany.

Great bartender and solid pub grub: bacon and cabbage, bangers and mash, Irish stew and toasts (open face sandwiches). Traditional music Thu-Fri-Sat-Sun. Clientele: James Joyce, Quentin Tarantino, Brendan Behan, and Michael Collins. In the thick of the Temple Bar area, at the corner of Dame Ct. and Dame Lane, west of Grafton and east of Dublin Castle. The stag’s head behind the bar comes from Alaska, in the year 1901 – in spite of what the bartenders will tell you. Look for the stuffed fox. Complain to the manager about the recent addition of a TV in the corner (visible in photo at top of post). Open from 10:30a daily; food served from noon to 6 pm.

The Long Hall
The twin striped awnings and plain brick facade do not prepare you for the ornateness of what’s inside (photo above). Long Hall is one of Dublin’s handsomest Victorian era pubs (est. 1840), reeking of atmosphere – old lanterns, clocks, and odd prints lining the walls, chandeliers and huge wooden arches – all are a sight to behold. The whole place screams of grandeur from another time. No blaring, piped in music, and no TV! Unfortunately, no food, either. Packed to the rafters on weekend evenings, yet quiet enough to read your newspaper during the day (opens at 1 pm Thu-Fri-Sat; from 4 pm other days). Little known fact: the River Poddle runs underneath. Unlike many pubs, the Long Hall does accept credit cards. A bit south of the tourist-clogged Temple Bar area at 51 S. Great Georges Street, Dublin.

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